First stop today is the much vaunted Archaeological Museum of Greece. It is said that this place is the finest of it's kind anywhere in the world. I can categorically say that if it isn't, then it can't be too far behind. It houses a tremendous collection of artifacts from the classical period. The museum also include several pre-classical eras, and eventual Roman subjugation. There's even a great Egyptian section where, if you look closely, you will observe a half eaten loaf of bread.
I have to say just how incredibly exquisite many of the items on display appear. The craftsmanship is staggering (particularly for its time) and they managed to avoid the all too real threat of making something made entirely from gold look like its worth a couple of euros. There is an interesting cachet of weapons, a lifetime's worth of pottery, and some beautifully sculptured statues and artwork. One piece of a full size horse in mid gallop, with a small boy on his back is a scene stealer. Brilliant, brilliant things.
It's already my last full day in the capital, so, consequentially, there is rather a lot to get through. I vi st the closely situated buildings of the National Library, the Modern day University and The Athens Akademy of Science and Research. All have a layout and influence from original buildings and concepts dating from centuries ago. They look great- a variation on an older theme. I visit the National Military Museum in order to achieve a grasp on the wars that have shaped the country through the millenia, but sadly, yet unsurprisingly, an hour (the place closes early) isn't quite enough to properly oversee: The Greek Leagues, Alexander the Great, Persian wars, The Crusades, Ottoman domination, Balkan disputes, both World Wars, and the continuously delicate relationship with Turkey. Phew!
My next stop is Lykavittos Hill for the best (and highest) views in town. The climb for the summit begins immediately at the steps of the Museum, and takes about 45 minutes, zigzagging my way past people out walking their hounds. The reward is a great view of all the ancient attractions, placed into the context of an off- white coloured, craggy city. Its well worth a look, regardless of a haze that has persisted since I arrived. Whatever your mood- happy, pensive, romantic, or sad- there is something to take from what you look down on. There's a wonderful wee church at the exact summit, and I enter its small confines before descending down one of the many paths on the other side of th hill.
The wintry botanic gardens next, followed by Hadrian's Arch on the way to the, once again, reconstructed Panthenion Stadium. Its first accurate rebuilding was conducted in order to accommodate the first modern Olympic games of 1896, and the current creation hosted the Archery in 2004. The black elongated track with it's trademark sharp bends was also the finish line for the marathons of that year, though famously Paula Radcliffe didn't quite make it this far. Unfortunately, the gates to the stadium remain close, (you still get a good view from the open end), so no chance to relive the glory moments from days gone by. I forgot my crossbow, so no matter.
A short hop, skip and a jump see me back at the hostel, for some relaxation time (read Alpha beer). The evening is spent with a leisurely walk around the central neighbourhood of Plaka. It is a popular tourist area, though not in an overpowering sense, especially at this time of year. Locals frequent in numbers here, also. Things are beginning to draw to a close for the day. The shopkeepers begin to take in their postcards, t-shirts and paintings. Store lights are extinguished. The pretty little tavernas are practically empty, seats remaining unused outside. Over the shoulders of small pockets of customers, the owners look on, tired and resigned, dreaming of the busier summer months. Some zither music drifts through the air.
I begin to make my way along a once famous street known as "The Avenue of The Tripods". I walk up a darkened side street, where tarmac gives way to stone and step. It winds off into the darkness, and, standing amongst the potted plants and shuttered windows, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a quiet village in Thassos or Crete. Only the faint rush of traffic, and the occasional glimpse of the towering Parthenon pulls you out of the surreal bubble, reminding you that you're surrounded by 5 million people. Making my way home I walk along a three laned running track, right in the middle of the winding, uneven street, and i just know that this is just another example of historical significance. It is everywhere.
I near my hotel, and happen upon something which I really hoped to see. The smell gives everything away before I actually witness it. Turning the corner, I chance upon three hooded youths spray painting the side of a house, as another keeps lookout. My appearance startles them before they realise I'm just a tourist, and not a policeman or resident. Graffiti is endemic in Athens. I don't recall anywhere else like it. It covers nearly everything, except archaeological buildings and the metro. I suppose it's part of modern day Athens, just like the glowing Acropolis behind our scene resonates from its past.
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