Ski and Surf

I'm awakened after a night of intermittent sleep by a security guard who seems to be trying to smarten the place up a bit by getting me to sit up in my chair. I was sort of expecting this to happen, but hoped it would be slightly later than 6am.


By a miracle, I happen to sleep a while longer sitting up, before making my way into Antalya on a exceptionally crowded local bus. I show the bus driver the address I'm trying to locate, but he's too content shouting at everyone to keep moving down the bus. I ask for assistance from the man sitting next to me. He asks the lady behind. Despite the address being central ( and in Turkish), everybody looks as confused as I do. The lady behind disembarks and tells me, in very stilted English to follow her. We walk to her beachfront law firm office and find the pension phone number online. A quick thank-you and a slow seaside tram ride later, I find myself at the gates of the old Byzantium part of the city. From there, I wander around the alleyways, sifting my way through a host of shops, and hotels. Success! I enter the Oasis pension and am greeted by the friendly owners and their big slavering dog. It's a lovely clean, fresh, quiet place that will only serve as my home for tonight.


I gratefully, and finally, dump off my bag and head out to explore what is a lively, modern looking city. I'm afforded a fine view from the old town peninsula right across the bay to one part of the modern, and much more high rise newer part of Antalya. It really is quite spectacular. There's a clear view of the rows of hotels and tourist hubs that span along the pebble beach. They only travel so far and nature reclaims some authority on the opposite, and eyecatching headland of the other side of the cove. Behind all of this lies a range of amazing sharp rising mountains, most of their peaks covered in dazzling white. They offer a stark contrast to the brilliant aquatic blue of the ocean. I'm later told that there are all year round ski resorts in the high ground, so if the mood takes you, you can ski in the summer days and relax on the beach in the summer evenings. Still gazing at the view, I make my way down towards the old marina, which serves as a refuge for tourist pleasure boats, and working fishing vessels alike. I watch the fisherman fixing and adjusting their nets, before walking over to dark wooden, varnished tourist cruise ships. These open deck vessels are all trying to take advantage of early season tourism, a tout or two standing nearby on the shore, explaining why their boat is better than everyone else's.

I enjoy watching some fishermen cast their big white floats out at the entrance to the harbour, all hoping to catch their tea for the day. I make my way back along the quay, where one of the pleasure boats offers me a deal not to be missed. I hope on board and end up chatting to a couple of ladies across from the Midlands on a golfing holiday at a nearby resort. They're here to swipe their sticks as often as possible, but today is a rest day, and a chance to take in the sights. One of the ladies, a retired teacher from New Zealand says she would love to do the whole backpacking thing, but lacks the confidence to give it a try. "Do what I do, and rely on the good spirit of local people to help you out when you most need it. It will always get you through", is the best thing I can offer her.

We make our way tightly along the rocky coast towards the new part of town, observing small waterfalls cascading into the clear seas. We see fisherman, who have somehow scrambled down to the waterline from the cliff tops above. We turn around and head back to the harbour, thus completing a short, yet enjoyable excursion. Feet safely back on Terra Firma, I follow the tramlines along the city's main seafront and take in the westernised shopping boutiques and arcades. Here you can visit official Levis, Quiksilver, Adidas, Abercrombie & Fitch and Nike stores. I walk the length of the seafront, ending up on the main shingle beach. With the sun still out and the weather warm, I can't resist dipping my foot in the sea( has to be done as often as possible, surely?) Today is another day where I have observed a destination during a very quiet period of the year. So many places on this journey will appear almost like a different place in the months to follow. For now, I see a few couples embodying the notions of love's young dream and a gang of school boys communicating in the universal language of schoolboys- kicking each other up the backside as hard and as often as possible.


I make my stroll back towards the old town. The day has now clouded over. The light is changing and the sky has become very dramatic looking. I can still make out the vapour trails of jets making their way back to a cold Europe. It reminds me that my flight home tomorrow is fast approaching. So, opportunities to take in the sunshine of today are fast disappearing. I suddenly realise I am the only person I have seen today in shorts. Not even the Germans had their's on.

Showered and changed back at Oasis, I take an evening stroll through the multitude of lanes and closes in the old town. Traffic is certainly limited here, and the quietness of the air is seldom punctuated, usually by the nearby mosque's call to prayer. I attempt to find a bar with enough of an atmosphere for a final drink and maybe even some music, but on a chilly February evening everywhere is quiet, and I make a premature return to the pension. I sit in and discuss online gambling with the owner, as he gambles online. He loves football. He loves gambling. It's been a very long and tiring day, but also a most enjoyable one.